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Vietnam
Partiamo dalla notizia: sono uscito per la prima volta dai confini dell'ex Impero Romano. Chi mi conosce lo sa, i limiti territoriali degli Imperatori romani erano anche i miei. Fino ad agosto 2015. Sono infatti uscito dall'Eurasia, culla della civiltà occidentale per andare a scoprire uno dei Paesi emblematici dell'Oriente: il Vietnam (ho pure dovuto fare il passaporto questa volta...Mauritania docet).
Per scoprire il Paese, un viaggio da sud a nord, verso quella Cina che rappresenta il riferimento del sud est asiatico e non solo.
Prima tappa: Ho Chi Minh City.
Quella che un tempo si chiamava Saigon, oggi è la capitale economica del Paese, la locomotiva che traina il Vietnam grazie alla doppia velocità con la quale la sua economia viaggia (PIL doppio rispetto al PIL del Paese). Iniziare da Saigon è stato per certi aspetti fuorviante. Quello che ho trovato lì non si è ripresentato nel resto del Paese. Ad Ho Chi Minh City ci sono una marea di cantieri attivi a tutte le ore, numerosissime torri, tanta nuova edilizia -i grandi interventi tutti facenti capo ad una manciata di grandi multinazionali, una frizzante energia e un senso di progresso che altrove non ho riscontrato. In generale i vietnamiti sono un popolo davvero operoso, ma a Saigon è tangibile la voglia di stare al passo con il resto del mondo.
Dalat.
Seconda tappa Dalat. 1650m slm. Una parentesi di fresco in un percorso fatto di temperature sopra i 35°C e umidità tendenti al 100%, questa è la normalità nel resto del Vietnam. Dalat è una piccola cittadina a circa 200km a nord est di Ho Chi Minh. E' la metà dei viaggi di nozze dei vietnamiti e luogo di villeggiatura per i benestanti del Paese che lì hanno le loro seconde case e portano a passeggio i loro "cani Alaska" status symbol della loro posizione sociale.
Attorno a Dalat si sviluppa una fitta vegetazione che spesso è interrotta e organizzata dalle ordinate piantagioni di caffè che ora il governo ha limitato nel loro sviluppo per non rischiare la monocultura e la deregulation. Il Vietnam è infatti il secondo produttore di caffè al mondo, dietro solamente al Brasile.
Nha Trang / Jungle Beach.
Dopo il fresco di Dalat tutti al mare. Verso Nha Trang. Ma non proprio, meglio un po' più a nord, circa una trentina di km, per evitare l'orda di turisti russi e non solo che rende Nha Trang un posto già visto, costruito a misura di turista russo. Lì, poco più a nord, ci sono una serie di calette tranquille immerse in una fittissima vegetazione e qualche villaggio di pescatori qua e là. Sylvio, canadese oggi cinquatacinquenne, negli anni '90, con il suo kayak ha scoperto il posto e dopo qualche anno se l'è comprato e ci ha fatto il suo "sandbox" dove anzichè costruire castelli di sabbia con paletta e secchiello si diverte a costruire strutture in bamboo che una dopo l'altra si aggiungono al catalogo delle "camere" che il particolare resort mette a disposizione dei turisti. Dopo aver raggiunto i 9m di altezza con solo bamboo e foglie di banano intrecciate, ora Sylvio è alle prese con la prossima sfida / gioco ("la differenza tra un bambino e un adulto è solamente la dimensione del suo sandbox" - cit.): realizzare una struttura con il fango. Sylvio è il deux ex machina di questo piccolo angolo di Vietnam. La sua è una piccola industria con il suo indotto, da infatti lavoro ad alcune famiglie del posto. Integrarsi qui per un occidentale non è facile ma lui sembra avercela fatta: moglie vietnamita, due figli e parla pure il vietnamita -anche se i locali ogni volta fanno un sorriso per via del suo accento-.
Ah dimenticavo, al mare i vietnamiti non ci vanno. Odiano la tintarella, le donne soprattutto. Pelle bianca sinonimo di bellezza. E pensare alla miriade di Inferni Tropicali e di altri solarium che negli anni '90 hanno invaso le nostre città occidentali dove la tintarella è uno status symbol.
Ho Ian
Dopo il mare/oceano, il fiume e il porto che non c'è più. Ho Ian, patrimonio dell'UNESCO dal 1999 deve oggi la sua fortuna al fango. Ho Ian è oggi forse la città turistica vietnamita più interessante da visitare grazie all'ondata di fango che nel diciannovesimo secolo inabissò il suo porto, salvandola così dalle sorti di un XX secolo che la avrebbe inevitabilmente coinvolta in vicende commerciali e politiche che ne avrebbero compromesso per sempre l'aspetto. Ho Ian a partire dal I secolo d.C. e in particolare dal 15simo secolo era uno dei principali porti del sud est asiatico con scambi intensi con Cinesi, Giapponesi ma anche con l'Occidente e il resto del mondo. Il fango ha cristallizzato la situazione bloccandola al 19simo secolo. Di quel periodo è anche il ponte giapponese che rappresenta l'immagine da cartolina della città. Ma l'asso che ha fatto vincere la nomination UNESCO ad Ho Ian è rappresentato dai 1107 (fonte UNESCO) edifici con telaio in legno contenuti entro due muri in mattoni che corrono ortogonali al fiume Thu Bon e che costituivano le dimore dei commercianti giapponesi e cinesi che qui si stabilivano per gestire i traffici durante i mesi di maggior scambio. Questo ha consegnato un impianto urbanistico semplice e funzionale fatto di edifici a due piani allineati sul fronte stradale e tutti con affaccio sul fiume che portano al loro interno, nell'impianto e nei dettagli architettonici evidenti influenze sia cinesi che giapponesi.
Ad Ho Ian c'è anche una tradizione gastronomica molto forte. I secoli di scambi commerciali hanno portato influenze diverse che hanno dato luogo ad una cucina davvero interessante e sfiziosa (ne sa qualcosa Ms. Vy proprietaria dei principali ristoranti della città).
Huè
La città in sè non è una metà imperdibile. Ma a Huè vi è la cittadella imperiale: un'articolata sequenza di spazi aperti, spazi coperti e spazi privati che erano la sede dell'Imperatore dal 1802 quando per sua volontà e dopo l'unificazione si decise di trasferire qui la capitale. Anche Huè con la sua cittadella e i complessi monumentali che si trovano lungo il fiume dei profumi (Song Huong River) sono "Patrimonio dell'umanità" (1993 UNESCO).
Ed è proprio lungo il fiume che si susseguono templi, pagode, tombe, etc. Una visita a questi monumenti può far comprendere in maniera sintetica i principi buddisti applicati all'architettura. La casa giardino rappresenta la vita, la pagoda la preghiera e la tomba la morte. Vita, preghiera e morte, i tre elementi della vita buddista.
In particolare la tomba di Khai Dinh, imperatore dal 1916, costruita a partire dal 1920, mescola una serie di stili, tra i quali quello francese e sorge su un'altura, circondata dal fiume e delle montagne che si narra siano state scavate/forgiate dal dragone che poi qui è stato sconfitto -vi è quella sorta di spada di pietra a testimoniare il punto esatto in cui il drago è stato trafitto-.
Il dragone nella mitologia locale è sempre presente. E' colui al quale si deve la creazione dei territori più suggestivi, la sua enorme e lunga coda ha forgiato gli spazi più belli del Vietnam.
Sapa
Altro luogo fresco. Sapa è una località dai paesaggi millenari dove vivono -come negli altipiani centrali del Vietnam- le minoranze etniche la cui vita ruota attorno alla coltivazione del riso che qui da la forma al paesaggio: terrazzamenti millenari che con un ingegneristico sistema di irrigazione ancora oggi sopravvivono. Si spera che queste enclave possano continuare a vivere in armonia col territorio. Lo dico perchè a Sapa la speculazione edilizia figlia dell'invasione turistica da ogni dove -Europa compresa- potrebbe arrecare seri danni al paesaggio e all'ecosistema di Sapa.
Hanoi
La capitale. Qui la densità urbanistica, come a Saigon, raggiunge i picchi del Paese e gli edifici si presentano come alte stecche di sigarette. Nonostante sia una metropoli di un Paese in via di sviluppo Hanoi è riuscita ad arginare il fenomeno degli slums. Questo grazie ad una politica di concessioni edilizie preventive. Premessa: il 90% degli edifici ad Hanoi è illegale, così il governo ha deciso di andare incontro a chi una casa -anche illegale- se l'è già costruita, facilitando l'ottenimento dei permessi per chi decidesse di sistemare la propria casa secondo le regole comunali. Hanoi si sviluppa in vari quartieri che portano con sè le influenze esterne: vi è il quartiere francese, il quartiere vecchio -con i suoi "distretti" commerciali, ogni via infatti è specializzata nella vendita di un singolo prodotto-, le nuove torri direzionali, il quartiere alto borghese a nord est del lago Tay Ho, il piccolo lago Hoan Kiem attorno al quale ruota la vita della popolazione della città -dagli esercizi mattutini alle passeggiate "serali" (in Vietnam non si va a dormire tardi...la notte non esiste, al massimo si può parlare di sera) e all'interno del quale sorge la pagoda di Thap Rua la pagoda della tartaruga. Il lago infatti è lo stesso dal quale una tartaruga gigantesca chiese a Le Loi (Thai To), antico re guerriero vietnamita che nel 1400 sconfisse l'Impero cinese, di restituire la spada che gli venne consegnata da una divinità e gli consentì innumerevoli vittorie. Riconsegnata la spada seguirono innumerevoli anni di benessere e fertilità. La tartaruga è infatti venerata come simbolo di fertilità.
Se il dragone è lo spazio, la tartaruga è la vita. In sintesi il Vietnam è dragone + tartaruga.
Sapa. Le risaie sui terrazzamenti che danno forma ad un'intera valle.
Sapa. Una hmong (etnia insediata tra Vietnam e Laos) che torna al villaggio. Sullo sfondo il resort in costruzione che scimmiotta i terrazzamenti millenari della valle.
Ho Chi Minh City. Il quartiere di Cholon, la zona antica dove i cinesi hanno fondato la città. Le torri sono arrivate anche qui.
Ho Chi Minh City. Il nuovo che avanza: la Bitexco Financial Tower.
Ho Ian. Sullo sfondo il ponte giapponese simbolo della città.
Densità abitativa Italia.
Densità abitativa Vietnam. Occhio alla legenda però: qui il rosso intenso significa >2500ab/kmq!
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